A.T. is a male senior high school student. He is from a non religious family and lives in Wingdale, New York. When not studying and going to school, A.T. enjoys being in the band and performing as an actor of the theater department.
Contextual Data:
Cultural Context: An advent calendar is a German originated item and practice dated back at least a century. It’s a calendar numbered 1-24 for each day of December up to Christmas. With each day, the recipient is given a piece of chocolate that they pop out of the calendar itself.
Social Context: This practice was brought up when asked about notable traditions or events he has during Christmas time. The calendar is often bought as a gift for another person. It’s a way to show kindness and care, but it also keeps the Christmas spirit by having a small consolation to look forward to each day.
Item:
An advent calendar is a December calendar numbered 1-24 for each day before Christmas. With each day, there is a piece of chocolate that the recipient pops out to eat on that given date. A.T. was taught this tradition from his mother, who was also taught by her mother, making the practice a passed down family tradition. For the Tracey family, the advent calendar is not only a way for the parent to connect their child to their lineage, but it also excites the kid with a treat they may not otherwise be allowed to have. It’s the epitome of Christmas Spirit as it shows care and affection while practicing small scale traditional gift giving.
Transcript:
“Every December first, our mother gives my brother, sister, and I and advent calendar. It’s just a a calendar for December with a piece of chocolate we can eat each day before Christmas. When I was a kid I always got so excited just because I got to eat chocolate in the morning but when we got older she told us our grandma did the same for her, and her mother before her. The chocolate part was cool and all, but this added such a nice sentiment to it and it always is amazing to think about my mom being a kid just like me getting excited for chocolate in the same exact way. I always hear stories from my mom and grandma and it’s always nice to learn about my family, but this makes me always feel so connected with with my ancestors, even the ones I didn’t even know”
Informant’s Comments:
“Before I learned about the heritage of the calendar, it was always just a way to embrace the Christmas spirit. The little shapes of the chocolates as stockings or Christmas trees or whatever are always so cute to me and make me so happy.”
Collector’s Comments:
Much like the idea of Santa and even Christmas as a whole, advent calendars have fallen victim to American commercialization. However, the roots of the folk item still linger throughout society as families and small cultures continue to follow decade long traditions that continue to hold sentimental value to them regardless of the increased westernization.
Joseph (Joe) Kramer is a male Dartmouth student in the class of 2022. Joe and his family live in Westwood, New Jersey. Joe has a currently undeclared major at Dartmouth but plans to graduate with degrees in Economics and Psychology. He plays the tight-end role for Dartmouth’s NCAA Division I varsity football team and is involved in various finance student organizations around campus. He plans to play a fifth year of football and will graduate after Fall 2022.
Contextual Data:
Cultural Context: Mariah Carey’s “All I Want For Christmas Is You” was released in 1994 and became an immediate icon of American Christmas. Practically every year since its release, the song has climbed the charts of every United States music streaming platform to become the most played song during the holiday season.
Social Context: This account was mentioned when the interviewee was asked about their favorite Christmas traditions. Joe was extremely excited to talk about his experiences with Mariah Carey’s song and even began singing the song during our interview.
Item:
Joe’s favorite memory of “All I Want For Christmas Is You” stems from a party called GDXmas that his fraternity Gamma Delta Chi (GDX) organizes every fall. He recalls being on the dance floor within the GDX house’s basement – approximately 100 people, dressed in extravagant Christmas-themed clothing, had been dancing to various Christmas songs with mild enthusiasm. When Mariah Carey’s famous song played on the speakers, every person in the basement sang the lyrics with ardent vigor. It was a very emotional moment – when the song finished playing, people cheered and demanded a replay of the song. Joe recalls this experience as one of his fondest at Dartmouth.
Transcript:
“My favorite memory of that song was during the GDXmas party two years ago. There were like 100 of us in the basement, and everyone had ridiculous Christmas outfits on. “All I want for Christmas” came on, and literally every person in the basement began belching the lyrics. A bunch of us put our arms around each other, and some of the girls were crying to the song. It was insane and super emotional. When it ended, everyone was clapping, cheering, and screamed for an Encore, and the whole 3-minute experience relived itself. Definitely one of my favorite memories at Dartmouth.”
Informant’s Comments:
“If I could hear it 100 times on Christmas, I would. You literally don’t need another Christmas song.”
Collector’s Comments:
Personally, the song I associate the most with the Christmas holiday is certainly Mariah Carey’s “All I Want For Christmas Is You”. I found Joe’s account of his experience with the song to be fascinating, and I could envision myself on that dance floor – the song is an American icon and truly invokes the joy-filled emotions of Christmas. The song itself is certainly folkloric – since its release, the song has been shared and transmitted in modern American culture. Most Americans heavily associate the song Christmas and revisit the track every year to bring about the celebratory emotions of the holiday.
Jonah Kershen is a male Dartmouth student in the class of 2022. Jonah hails from a Jewish family and lives in Hartford, Connecticut. Jonah is an Economics/Computer Science double major at Dartmouth and plays for the Club Soccer team on campus. He plans to work as a trader upon graduation.
Contextual Data:
Cultural Context: Jonah’s family is traditionally Jewish – Jonah celebrates all Jewish holidays and consumes a fully kosher diet himself. While the family primarily celebrates Hannukah during late December, the family still observes the gift-giving and family-time-oriented nature of Christian Christmas. Like Chinese people, Jewish people tend not to celebrate Christmas in a traditional, Christian American sense.
Social Context: This description was mentioned when the interviewee was asked about their Christmas traditions. While Jonah was clear that his family chose not to practice many traditionally American Christmas rituals, he did emphasize that his family (and other Jewish families) tended to repeat certain activities on Christmas, including a Christmas dinner.
Item:
Jonah’s family’s Christmas dinner almost always features takeout Chinese food. Like Jewish people, Chinese people tend not to celebrate Christmas extravagantly, and most Chinese restaurants are open on Christmas Eve. Jonah’s family typically orders food from the vegan/vegetarian (kosher-certified) menu at a local Chinese restaurant called Black Bamboo. After finishing their Chinese food, they usually eat a homemade, Jewish dessert such as chocolate babka. Jonah emphasized that his family simply considers the Christmas holiday as a period of rest, and they appreciate that Chinese restaurants remain open on the holiday. He mentioned that most of his Jewish family and friends alike will order Chinese takeout on Christmas and have a quiet, filling meal with just their immediate family.
Transcript:
“In terms of dinner, we usually just order takeout from this Chinese restaurant called Black Bamboo which is open on Christmas Eve. They have a pretty awesome vegan/vegetarian menu that we order from, and my mom will usually make a chocolate babka or some other Jewish dessert to cap off the dinner. It’s hilarious – literally all my Jewish friends and their families order Chinese takeout on Christmas. I think Jewish people just consider the holiday as a day of rest where the parents can just get away from work and have a nice dinner with the family.”
Informant’s Comments:
“We owe a lot to the Chinese people, to be honest. Can’t imagine how many Jewish families they feed on Christmas.”
Collector’s Comments:
Like the Chinese food recipe that I collected from my mother, I wanted to interview members of other minority folk groups in America and investigate their Christmas food traditions. I thought that interviewing a Jewish person would be particularly informing due to the religious conflict of interest. Obviously, Jewish people would celebrate Hannukah a few days after Christmas and care less about the Christian holiday. I found Jonah’s responses to be very interesting – he mentioned that many Jewish families in his immediate network simply considered the Christmas holiday as a period of rest and would also order Chinese takeout for Christmas dinner. This tradition appears to be folkloric in nature among the Jewish-American folk group. Jewish families appreciate the day of rest and choose not to cook a large, effortful dinner for many mouths, opting instead for the convenience of Chinese takeout. This practice appears to be shared among many Jewish families and is an incredibly interesting discovery in my collection process.
Bing Hai is a 50-year old woman of Chinese descent living in Palo Alto, California. She is also the mother of the collector. Bing was born in Shenyang, China and immigrated to the United States upon finishing college in Beijing. She works on the patent counsel for Bristol Myers Squibb and has two college-aged children.
Contextual Data:
Cultural Context: Bing learned to cook Chinese food at a very young age – she has a large repertoire of Chinese recipes that she can make at a moment’s notice. However, having lived in the United States for three decades, she has become skilled at cooking various American foods as well. Bing has celebrated most popular American holidays, including Christmas. Moreover, in Chinese culture, simple noodle dishes are considered a staple. Historically, many areas of China are relatively poor and live off of grains and rice. Throughout thousands of years, generations of Chinese people have depended on and passed down simple food recipes such as the cold noodle dish outlined here.
Social Context: This food recipe was shared when the interviewee was asked about the specific foods she makes for Christmas dinner. As the primary chef in the household, Bing has a lot of experience preparing large amounts of food for various family dinners.
Item:
Cold noodles (and other simple noodle dishes) are a notoriously easy dish to prepare in Chinese culture. For this recipe, you boil noodles until cooked and immediately place them in ice water to cool them down. Then, you prepare a sauce mixture with soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and scallions. Simply toss the cold noodles with the sauce mixture, and finish with sliced cucumbers and more scallions. The noodles are filling, easy to make, and can be prepared quickly in large quantities.
Transcript:
“The dish I most enjoy making on Christmas is 凉面 (cold noodles). They are so easy to make, and I can make an enormous amount for the 10+ people who we invite on Christmas. You boil the noodles in water, take them out, and rest them in ice water. Your sauce is simply soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and scallions. Then you just mix the noodles and sauce, and slice some cucumbers and more scallions to put on top.”
Informant’s Comments:
“The kids especially love this dish since it’s so pleasing to the palette, and the noodles really serve as the main carbs for the dinner.”
Collector’s Comments:
I chose to ask my own mother about her Christmas food preparations, given that we come from a Chinese background and our Christmas dinner tends not to include traditionally American foods. As America becomes a melting pot of cultures and ethnicities, I found it useful to examine how minorities celebrate Christmas from the perspective of food. My mother echoed the overarching theme from my interviews – families tend to invite a lot of folks to Christmas dinner and choose to prepare whatever dishes are easiest to make in large quantities. This cold noodles recipe is many Chinese families’ go-to dish for large family dinners and therefore for Christmas dinner – it is folkloric in nature as many in the Chinese-American folk group will create this dish for large meals.
Alexander (Alex) Bakos is a male Dartmouth student in the class of 2022. Alex’s family is culturally American and lives in New York City, New York. Alex is a Mathematics major at Dartmouth and plays for the Club Soccer team on campus, and he plans to work as a quantitative trader upon graduation.
Contextual Data:
Cultural Context: Alex’s family celebrates Christmas in a more traditional sense. They purchase a tree and decorate it in their New York City apartment, and their close family stay over on Christmas Eve. They watch Christmas movies that night, put the kids to bed early, and engage in gift-giving in the morning. The family typically hosts a dinner for close and extended family on Christmas in their New York apartment. The family spends a few days preparing food for the dinner.
Social Context: This description was mentioned when the interviewee was asked about their Christmas dinner traditions. Alex’s family has made the same Christmas dinner for as long as Alex can remember.
Item:
Alex’s family’s Christmas dinner is essentially the same as their Thanksgiving dinner. They prepare a turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, pigs in blankets, and roasted vegetables. The family spends the day before Christmas Eve brining the turkey, and everyone gathers on Christmas Eve to prepare the rest of the meal. For dessert, the family typically buys a few pies and various other delicacies from local bakeries.
Transcript:
“We literally have Thanksgiving dinner over again on Christmas. My mom buys and brines a turkey on the 23rd, and the entire family comes together on Christmas Eve to prep the other dishes. We have the turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, pigs in blankets, and do some roasted veggies on the side. My mom buys some pies and other desserts from local shops on the Upper West, and we have our close family over for dinner, like 10-15 people.”
Informant’s Comments:
“I think Thanksgiving foods are just easiest for the family to make. Thanksgiving and Christmas are really the only times we have massive dinners, and the Thankgiving foods are just my mom’s go-to’s for this kind of meal.”
Collector’s Comments:
I found it incredibly interesting that Alex was my second interviewee whose family prepares Thanksgiving foods for Christmas. After reviewing all my interviews, I’ve learned that many American families consider Thanksgiving foods as a “go-to” meal when having to prepare food for large quantities of family members. Indeed, mashed potatoes and turkey are the #2 and #3 most popular Christmas foods according to a 2020 survey conducted by YouGov. Additionally, Christmas does appear to be more formal and focused on satisfaction (supported by – many families during my collection process have purchased or prepared extravagant combinations of desserts to finalize the Christmas meal. My collection process has implied to me that Thanksgiving foods and sweets are certainly folkloric in American Christmas culture, recipes of which are repeatedly used and passed down through families.
Christopher (Chris) Sykes is a male Dartmouth student in the class of 2022. He has a rather diverse background – his father is Caucasian American and his mother is Korean. They now live on the island of Oahu. Chris formerly played the Wide Receiver role on the Dartmouth Football Team and is a Computer Science major. He plans to enter the workforce as a software engineer next year.
Contextual Data:
Cultural Context: Chris’ family has historically celebrated American cultural holidays, and their family’s food influences draw lightly from Chris’ mother’s Korean background. During Christmas, Chris’ family typically hosts a dinner for close and extended family, inviting upwards of 20 people for this dinner. The family spends a full day preparing large amounts of food for the group.
Social Context: This description was mentioned when the interviewee was asked about their Christmas dinner traditions. Chris’ family has made this dinner for several years with limited alterations.
Item:
Chris’ Christmas family dinner features a number of Thanksgiving foods, including mashed potatoes and gravy, stuffing, and cranberry sauce. The hallmark feature of their dinner is a roasted prime rib, and the dinner ends with a plethora of desserts. This dinner is easy for Chris’ family to prepare in large quantities – they have many materials left over from Thanksgiving, and everyone in the family enjoys the foods.
Transcript:
“It’s funny. Our Christmas dinner has a bunch of Thanksgiving foods like mashed potatoes, stuffing, and cranberry sauce. But our dinner is more formal and dessert-themed. We do a roasted prime rib, and we finish the dinner with a chocolate cake, ice cream layer cake, brownies, and regular ice cream. We don’t really have a food specific to Christmas. We do prime rib only because we don’t want another turkey.”
Informant’s Comments:
“We love the Christmas dinner. The foods we make are agreeable to everyone, and we really have no complaints from anyone.”
Collector’s Comments:
Through my collection process, I’ve noticed that many families seem to prepare whatever foods are easiest to make in large quantities. For a lot of American families, Thanksgiving foods appear to fit this description well. Some families may have specific dishes they make on Christmas based on family-specific traditions, but it appears that Thanksgiving foods appear to be folkloric in American culture. I’ve learned that Christmas dinner is merely a formal meal to be enjoyed by all members of the family – however, certain foods are definitely folkloric in nature.
Genre: Material Lore – dish; Customary Lore – celebration, family tradition
Language: English with some Italian
Country of Origin: Italy
Informant: M.P.S.
Date Collected: November 19, 2020
Informant Data:
M.P.S. is a 22-year-old senior studying Mathematics and Computer Science at Dartmouth College. She is half Canadian and half Italian, but she spent most of her life in England. As a young child, she spent some time living with her relatives in Italy, where she learned to speak basic Italian and became accustomed to many local traditions, especially ones related to food. She is non-religious but enjoys celebrating Christmas with her family.
Contextual Data:
Cultural Context
In Italy, Christmas cakes, more accurately described as sweet breads, are traditional desserts eaten for Christmas celebrations. During the Middle Ages, only rich people could afford to eat white bread, and sweet bread was considered a luxury reserved for the nobility. Nowadays, they are much more affordable and extremely popular among Italian households. Most families purchase them at the store days or even weeks in advance, though some choose to bake their own at home.
Social Context
Christmas cake, as the name implies, is eaten on or around Christmas Day. Store-bought Christmas cake is often packaged in a beautiful paper container. Many families have their own rituals when it comes to unpackaging the Christmas cake and sharing the delicious contents within.
Item:
Pandoro, which translates to “golden bread,” is a type of traditional Italian Christmas cake that originates from Verona. It is a plain sweetbread dusted with vanilla-scented icing sugar that is well-known for its distinctive golden color, which signifies wealth. When viewed from above, the shape of Pandoro resembles an eight-pointed star, which symbolizes salvation and abundance from a Judeo-Christian perspective. When purchased from the store, Pandoro is nicely packaged with the icing sugar included in a plastic packet. For many families, the preparation of Pandoro is an entertaining ritual that typically takes place early Christmas morning: the whole sweetbread is placed in a plastic bag along with the powdery icing sugar. The plastic bag is then sealed and shaken vigorously until the cake is fully coated in icing sugar. Afterwards, the Pandoro is sliced and shared among the family. Unfortunately, Pandoro is difficult to find in the US. Many Italian American families prefer Panettone, a cupola-shaped Christmas cake from Milan that contains dried or candied fruits.
Image File:
Bauli Pandoro, a popular brand (Photo was taken by M.P.S. on November 30, 2020; she ordered the Pandoro from the store more than a month in advance)
Audio Clip:
Transcript:
M.P.S. (informant): So I eat this food, so my food is called a Pandoro. Am I meant to say that now?
W.W. (collector): Yeah, yeah.
M.P.S.: Okay, so my food is called a Pandoro. It’s basically a Italian Christmas bread, cake type food. And it is my favorite food of all time. I love it so much. I’ve eaten it every Christmas since I was a baby. Either if I was in Italy, that Christmas, or if I was in England, which is where I live. And this is basically a type of kind of big, fluffy yellow cake that you can eat around Christmas time. I don’t know if there’s any specific rules. But typically, my family we wait until Christmas day to open it. We buy it from the store, we don’t make them ourselves. And one of the fun-est things about them is that you take the icing sugar, and you mix it into, into this kind of plastic bag, and you put the whole cake in the plastic bag, and you shake it around until the cake is coated and icing sugar. So that’s kind of like the ritualistic element every Christmas morning. So the first thing we do is open the Pandoro and shake it up so that it’s ready to eat at lunchtime.
W.W.: Great. And the tradition that you just mentioned is something that you only do with your family, or is this a common thing for Italian families to do?
M.P.S.: Well, a lot of Italians eat Pandoro at Christmas. And I mean, you typically, when you buy them, they’ll come with a packet of icing sugar and a plastic bag in the box ready for you to do, so I think lots of Italian families do shake it up together. It’s kind of like celebratory, although I don’t know whether or not it’s specifically like on Christmas Day or just around the time. And some people obviously make them themselves. They home-make.
W.W.: So you mentioned Pandoro is Italian Christmas cake. Could you talk a little bit about how it’s, like what’s special about the cake? Um, like for example, like the shape, the way it’s made.
M.P.S.: So it’s kind of shaped like a Christmas tree, and it’s really tall. So like from the top it looks like a star which is really nice and Christmas-y and it’s made it’s pretty simple. The ingredients, I’m pretty sure just butter, sugar, flour, eggs, or I’m not even sure I don’t think there’s eggs actually. Um, and it’s originally like bread. So it’s Pandoro, which means like bread, gold bread, right, “pan” is bread, and “d’oro” is gold. So it’s like meant to be very like yellow, yellowy. So that’s kind of what makes it stand out. There’s another Christmas cake called Panettone which is similar and maybe more commonly found, like in America, or I’ve seen it more often like, in places like Starbucks and things, and this has got fruits and stuff in it. But Pandora is typically like plain, and you’re just eating it with sugar. Some people like prepare it different ways. I like to dip it in milk. I think it’s really delicious.
Informant’s Comments:
If you haven’t tried Pandoro before, I highly recommend you try it. It’s so good. It doesn’t seem like it should be that good because it’s just bready sponge cake. But it is. There is something about it and the flavor. That makes it my favorite thing about Christmas time. It’s so delicious. And if you try it, you shouldn’t put whipped cream or ice cream or chocolate on top. Just eat it like is meant to be eaten, at least for the first time, so you get the proper experience because I feel like it’s got such a delicate flavor.
Collector’s Comments:
Fortunately, I was able to try Pandoro in my freshman year of college. It tastes absolutely amazing, and the experience was one of the highlights of my winter term. I really enjoyed learning about the informant’s lovely family tradition on Christmas morning where they prepare the Pandoro together. I didn’t know food preparation could be so fun!
Genre: Material Lore – dish; Customary Lore – celebration, religious custom
Language: English with some Russian
Country of Origin: Russia
Informant: V.A.
Date Collected: November 13, 2020
Informant Data:
V.A. is ~50 years old, and she is a professor at Dartmouth College. She was born in the Soviet Union, which is now Russia, in the city of Moscow. Currently, she is religious and celebrates Christmas as a religious holiday; however, when she was growing up in the atheist Soviet environment, there was no Christmas whatsoever.
Contextual Data:
Historical & Religious Context
After the Russian Revolution, the Communists took the secular traditions of Christmas and passed them onto the New Year, which was celebrated as a secular holiday. Christmas trees, gifts, and food became New Year’s trees, gifts, and food. The religious traditions of Christmas were discontinued, and Christmas dishes associated with religious ceremonies were no longer prepared, at least not openly. After the end of the Communist regime, Christmas returned, but, nowadays, it is solely observed in Russia as a church holiday rather than a commercial holiday like in the US. The gift-giving tradition and original Christmas dishes are still part of New Year’s celebrations.
Cultural Context
Russian salads are unlike American salads. They are often warm dishes that feature a rich assortment of ingredients such as meat, seafood, root vegetables, and various types of dressing.
Social Context
In Russia, families hold a New Year’s feast as a replacement for the pre-revolution Christmas feast. The family or community gathers for a large meal consisting of mainly secular dishes, many invented during the Soviet era. In addition, the New Year is celebrated by champagne and other revelries.
Item:
Kutja (Кутья) is a pudding-like dish made using some variety of grain, typically wheat berries or rice, cooked with honey. Sometimes, other ingredients such as nuts and raisins are also added. Traditionally, before the Soviet era, it was served on Christmas Eve as a celebration for Jesus’s birthday. It was also eaten after funeral ceremonies at the church to commemorate the souls of the departed.
Salat Olivier (салат оливьер) is a rich salad consisting of chicken, potatoes, mayonnaise, pickles, carrots, onions, and tinned peas that every Russian family prepares for the New Year. It was invented during the Soviet era and remains a popular salad dish to this day.
Transcript of Interview Clip:
W.W. (collector): Thank you so much. So feel free to go ahead and talk about the item you’re sharing as well as any relevant social or cultural context related to the item.
V.A. (informant): Yeah, I think I want to say that so my own way of celebrating Christmas has changed because when I was a child, and when I was, when I was a young adult, I didn’t… when I was a child, I did not celebrate Christmas, because nobody did. It was the end of the Soviet Union. And during the Soviet times, people did not celebrate Christmas, at least openly. And the whole holiday was replaced by the celebration of the New Year.
After the revolution, yeah, that was a deal of the Communists, they just took the traditions of Christmas and passed them onto the New Year, they kind of made this a non-religious holiday. So the Christmas tree became a New Year tree. Christmas gifts became New Year gifts. And Christmas food became New Year food. So people that before the revolution, they used to think that traditional dishes were making a goose or a duck, roast duck or roast goose, as, because meat were… because, why that? Yes, well, for once, the celebration of Christmas is preceded by Christmas Lent, by a fast, a pretty long, fast like a month long when people don’t eat meat. So eating meat was like a way to celebrate after a very long period of not eating it. So that, that was a traditional dish. And another traditional dish also that that also has religious symbolism was what is called kutja (Кутья). And that was some kind of grain like rice or wheat grains cooked with honey. And that is something that is associated with remembering the dead. So this is a traditional dish, for example, when somebody dies and after you give this religious ceremonial saying goodbye to the person at the church, that is the food that you eat. So it was sometimes served during the Christmas, although it is like a birthday. Yes, a birthday of Jesus, still it, it has this association of paying tribute to the dead people and kind of acknowledging that they’re still there. Yeah. So, but that is that food, because of its very religious association, it was not passed into the celebration of the New Year.
So when I was growing up, what people would do for the New Year that at that time replaced Christmas would be some kinds of new Soviet dishes like for example, something which we call salat olivier (салат оливьер), a salad, which is not really a salad but like a warm salad, with chicken, with mayonnaise, with potatoes, etc. Like some very rich salad that people traditionally make for the New Year. That’s another, another thing that people always have for the New Year is champagne.
And so Christmas was totally lost. I didn’t celebrate it. And then I became religious at some point in my life and when Christmas was returned, after the Communist regime was over, and now the new Russia actively promotes religion. Yeah, so people started celebrating it again. But it remained where it was. It’s a church holiday. So what I’m trying to say is that people still make ducks and geese for the New Year, they still make the salad with chicken and potatoes, and they still drink some champagne for the New Year. But celebration of the Christmas is limited to religious families. It is nothing whatever like it is in the States, it’s not a commercial holiday. Nobody’s giving gifts. Nobody’s… all the celebration is around the New Year. So in a way, there is no Christmas, traditional Christmas dishes, now.
Collector’s Comments:
I enjoyed learning about the history behind the dishes. It is fascinating that many Christmas traditions were passed on to the New Year and continue to live on. During the Cultural Revolution in China, religious practices, especially Buddhist ones, were also labelled as superstition and purged in favor of atheism.
Genre: Material Lore – dish; Customary Lore – celebration, family tradition
Language: English with some Russian
Country of Origin: Russia
Informant: M.R.
Date Collected: November 14, 2020
Informant Data:
M.R. is a 19-year-old senior studying Computer Science and Economics at Colgate University. He is Jewish and second-generation Russian American. His parents were originally from Nizhny Novgorod (Нижний Новгород), a city four hours east of Moscow, before immigrating to the US around 25 years ago. His family primarily celebrates American and Jewish holidays rather than Russian ones. However, they still cook and eat many traditional dishes from Russian cuisine for Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, and New Year’s. Although M.R.’s family observes Jewish festivities, they do not attribute much religious significance to most of the food they eat during those occasions. Instead, the food serves as a tool for bringing the family together and creating a sense of community.
Contextual Data:
Historical & Religious Context
The majority of Russian households are Orthodox Christian, with Jews accounting for less than 0.2% of the population in Russia. During the latter half of the 20th century, there was a movement of Jews, like M.R.’s parents, who emigrated from Russia to countries like the US due to religious persecution and harassment from state authorities. Many Russian Jewish families in the US celebrate a lot of Jewish holidays as a testament of their faith and religious freedom. However, they have not forgotten their Russian heritage and continue to prepare traditional Russian dishes even for non-Russian holidays.
Cultural Context
For many Russian-Jewish American families, New Year’s has replaced the role of Christmas as a gift-giving holiday. Ded Moroz (Дед Мороз) or Santa Claus comes on New Year’s Eve and distributes presents to the children. They also have New Year’s trees, which serve the same function as Christmas trees. The festival food for New Year’s is like that of Thanksgiving, consisting of traditional salads, soups, and poultry. Many non-Jewish Russian families in the US also eat these dishes for Christmas.
In the American context, a salad usually refers to a mixture of raw vegetables with small portions of other ingredients. In the Russian context, a salad is a more general concept, often containing a wide variety of ingredients that range from frozen fish to boiled root vegetables.
Social Context
Although Russian families in America observe different holidays based on religion and personal preference, it is common for families to celebrate important winter festivals by preparing a large traditional Russian dinner that symbolizes abundance and family unity.
Items:
Selodka Pod Shuboy (селёдка под шубой), or dressed herring, colloquially known as “herring under a fur coat” is a popular salad for winter festivals. It typically consists of diced pickled herring covered with layers of root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, and beetroots that are boiled and grated, along with chopped onions and dressing like mayonnaise. Beetroots are often placed in the final layer to give the dish its characteristic purple color. The salad is often adorned with grated boiled eggs, and, in some variations, a layer of grated apple.
Borshch, Shchi, and Gribnoy Sup (борщ, щи, грибной суп), or Beet, Cabbage, and Mushroom Soup, are common soups served along with the meal. They are all thick soups that are usually slow-cooked for hours. Borshch is commonly made with beef, cabbage, onion, carrots, potatoes, and beet. Other root vegetables like turnip can also be added according to personal taste. Shchi is made with either cabbage or sauerkraut and can either contain meat or be meatless. It is often served with boiled potatoes and sour cream on the side. Gribnoy Sup is prepared using mushrooms that were preserved before the harsh winter season. Many Orthodox Russians eat this hearty dish for sochelnik, the meatless Christmas Eve Holy Supper.
Audio Clip:
Transcript:
M.R. (informant): Yeah, yeah. So I would say the majority of Russian households are like, all like Christian and like Orthodox and some other kind of religious group besides Judaism, we saw kind of, we see kind of a large, like movement of Jews outside of like, like Jews from Russia, immigrating to the US because of religious persecution and harassment, and, you know, higher positions, not, not being very kind to Jews, right. So my family is kind of part of that movement, and they immigrated to the US. And here we celebrate a lot of Jewish holidays, right? Because there is kind of the sense of religious freedom. So that’s definitely it’s definitely, it definitely influences what we do at the end of the year, right? Instead of celebrating Christmas, which is very, very big in Russia as well. We celebrate Hanukkah, and we celebrate New Year’s. And mostly, I would say, like Jewish holidays, as opposed to Russian holidays.
W.W. (collector): Great. Yeah. Thank you so much. Yep. So you can go ahead and tell me about your items.
M.R.: Yeah, yeah. So. So for Hanukkah, we don’t have necessarily like, like a specified cuisine. That’s more of a holiday that we like, embrace family and unity, as opposed to like a giant feast. Whereas like Thanksgiving and New Year’s, those are more of like feast the type of holidays. So Thanksgiving, for example. This is celebrated, sort of similarly to how it’s celebrated in the US, like, if we take like the juxtaposition between like a US family and a Russian American or Russian family celebrating Thanksgiving, it’s very similar, right? So we have a big table, all the relatives and friends get together. And there’s a lot of common elements such as the big turkey, there’s usually like cranberry, like stuffing, you know, maybe some mashed potatoes. But this is where it kind of diverges for Russian families. We have a lot more emphasis on like Russian food. So there’s all sorts of things like selodka pod shuboy (селёдка под шубой), which is like beet salad over herring fish, we have lots of soups, like, including like, shchi, gribnoy sup (щи, грибной суп), like mushroom soup. And like borshch (борщ), that’s the classic Russian one. And then lots of salads. Another just like background is that like, salad in in the American context means usually, like lettuce and other things. And that’s, that’s what we like, think of as salads, but in Russian context, a salad is just a group of items. So it’s like, basically, everything’s a salad. Or you can have beet salad, which is just beet sliced. You can have the option of carrot salad. That’s a very common one as well. Yeah, so salads are like, are very huge as well. So those are kind of like the main differences and in terms of cuisine, for like, Russian houses on Thanksgiving. And then should I talk about New Year’s as well?
W.W.: Yeah. Okay.
M.R.: Yeah, New Year’s is also interesting, because, for us, we’re Jewish, so we don’t celebrate Christmas. So Santa Claus or Ded Moroz (Дед Мороз) comes on New Year’s for us. And we have a New Year’s tree similar to the way Americans have, like, have a Christmas tree, right. So we have like, presents under the nearest tree. And Ded Moroz comes to give all the kids podarki (подарки) or presents. And they have to be like, really nice to receive the presents and not naughty and stuff, right. So it’s, it’s like a very similar thing. And there’s a specified kind of cuisine for New Year’s but similar to Thanksgiving. It provides kind of a sense of community and allows people to get together to just have Russian cuisine.
Collector’s Comment:
It is interesting to hear that many Russian-Jewish Americans celebrate common Christmas traditions on New Year’s due to religious and cultural reasons. My family, which is Chinese, also places great emphasis on soups for the winter; however, the soups we prepare are much thinner and contain traditional Chinese ingredients such as ginger and winter melon.
Genre: Material Lore – Christmas dish; Customary Lore – celebration, family tradition
Language: English
Country of Origin: United States
Informant: H.J.
Date Collected: November 10, 2020
Informant Data:
H.J. is a 22-year-old male living in San Diego, California. He has lived in New York, San Francisco, and Boston. He lives with his parents, grandparents, and a sister. His parents were originally from China but lived in Montreal, Canada before giving birth to H.J.
Contextual Data:
Social Context
H.J. first had this dish in elementary school. He invented this Christmas dish for his family because of the Surf Clams’ distinct red and white color. He had recently learned about the Christmas symbolism in those colors and wanted to eat something in those colors for Christmas. Over time, he also grew to associate Surf Clams with cold weather because the clams are served chilled, similar to the weather during Christmas in the areas where he lived before. Now, eating Surf Clams is an important tradition within his family.
Cultural Context
In America, the traditional colors of Christmas are red, green, and white; the red and white color of the Surf Clams ties the dish to Christmas
Since Christmas is celebrated in the cold winter season, Surf Clams are also served chilled to mimic the environment.
Item:
Surf Clams are a type of fresh clams bought at a local grocery store. The clams are deshelled and placed in a ring on a plate while still cold. The dish is served with a dipping sauce mixture combining soy sauce and a bit of Japanese wasabi. It is usually eaten with rice. This dish doesn’t originate from a specific culture. Rather, it was put together by H.J. and his family.
Transcript of Interview Clip:
Y.H. (collector): What is a special Christmas dish to you?
H.J. (informant): I eat Surf Clams every year.
Y.H.: When did you first start eating this dish and why?
H.J.: We first started eating these Surf Clams because they were red and white. I remember I was really young, probably in elementary school and we learned that red, white and green were the colors of Christmas, so I really wanted to eat something red and white for Christmas. Looking back, there were definitely other foods that are red and white, such as some fish probably, or even crab and lobster, but I didn’t like those at the time so we decided to get the Surf Clam.
Y.H.: Why have you continued eating it throughout the years?
H.J.: Mm. I think that over time, it still carried with it the tie with Christmas colors, for me at least. And so I have already wanted to eat it every year. My sister and parents don’t really have that connection but we still eat it every year. Also it’s really tasty so there was no reason to stop. Oh and since it’s served chilled, it gives me Christmas vibes even when I just think about it so, in my mind, I already associate it with Christmas since, you know, Christmas is in the winter.
Y.H.: That makes sense. Do you think there is a cultural background needed to understand your appreciation?
H.J.: Ya I think with two things. The first one I think is like the person needs to associate Christmas with winter and the cold. I know like around the world, some places celebrate Christmas in the summer because their seasons are flipped, so they may not think of Christmas as a cold time of the year. The other thing is that they need to associate the colors red, green and white with Christmas. I don’t know if there are different cultures that associate different colors with Christmas but ya.
Y.H.: Thank you.
Collector’s Comments:
Among the dishes I collected, this was definitely the most interesting because it had nothing to do with family history. The origin of the dish isn’t tied to the Christian religion, nor H.J.’s Chinese ethnicity. Instead, it is a ritual and tradition invented by him for his family based on his personal interpretation of Christmas.
