Blogging from Rome, Italy on September 26th, 2019.
Steps: 21, 000
Bloggers: Margaret and Ben
Our overarching theme of the day was to follow the Viam Triumphalis (the triumphal road) into Rome. We payed keen attention to what the experience of the architecture and layout of the city would have been like to a visitor to Rome, or to an ordinary Roman citizen.
We first met at the Largo Argentina after a quick coffee and snack for most of the group. Then we walked through the Theater of Marcellus to see the three temples near the Forum Boarium (think day 3!) in the Forum Holitorium. The Temples of Spes, Juno, and Janus were built almost on top of each other and then the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Prison was built on top of the temples. We were all very excited that we got to explore the basement of the church and see the foundations of the temples.
We then went back to the Largo Argentina and discussed the temples located there. A few of us were constantly distracted by the many feline friends that occupy the Largo Argentina, as it also serves today as a cat sanctuary. The temples here were very interesting because we were able to see the different phases of the construction and reconstruction of the temples. All four of the temples were manubial temples, meaning they were built with victors’ spoils of war.
Then we had an excellent lunch at Roscioli’s. The pizza was incredible and we ate in the Dartmouth Rome Center as we discussed our project for tomorrow while Professor Stewart is in London.
After lunch, we walked back through the Theater of Marcellus to the Capitoline Hill to get a good, free look at the Roman Forum for Halle’s presentation on the murder and funeral of Clodius Pulcher. Clodius Pulcher was a controversial man, and after his murder, his wife laid his naked body out in front of their house. This act incited a riot among Clodius’s aristocratic friends, plebeians, and slaves who were rebelling against the corruption of the aristocracy.
After Halle’s fantastic presentation, we went to the Circus Maximus to discuss its history and sit in the shade. Although it now looks like a barren field with sloping grass sides, it used to be the height of Roman entertainment. Its likely that wooden seats filled the sides enough for 150,000 people to sit and watch the chariot races and the Ludi Romani. The seating was rigorously structured, and the social vertical hierarchy of Rome would have been visually ingrained on the seating chart. We also discussed the presence of gods near the Circus Maximus and why gods of harvest, sowing, and storage would be present in a scene of victory and games.
We wrapped up the ancient part of our day, bid adieu to Professor Stewart, and wished her luck on her presentation in London before heading out for granita and gelato.
Finally, we watched a film in Italian that aimed to humanize a stigmatized and violent area in Naples. Molto interessante!