Just FYI all the galleries have funny captions if you click to expand the photos đ
Monday Nov. 1st – Friday Nov. 5th
Monday morning had me waking up a little too late for my geography class. However, while walking to my environmental engineering class in the afternoon, I talked to one of the locals I met there, Joy, who showed me a small short cut from my hostel to the classroom building, the infamous coupleâs walkway between UC and New Asia. After class, I met up with Wooseok at the MTR station with plans to visit a chicken hot pot place (éç ˛). My roommate was late meeting us at the MTR station because apparently he fell asleep during class and when he woke up, the room was dark and no one was in it, leaving him surprised at how he was abandoned. However, the wait was worth it, as when we got to the restaurant in Tai Wo, 4č, I put aside all other thoughts to focus on the delicious chicken aromas we experienced that evening. We followed it up with some ice cream from 7-Eleven before heading back to campus.
Tuesday meant a midterm for my control theory class. A quick sandwich and some Laplace transforms later, I go back to grab dinner before heading to another geography tutorial sesh. On a whim, Tyler and Jessica were free to bring me to Mongkok for some desserts and arcade fun. As a late Halloween celebration, Lee Woo Sing College had set up a mini haunted house in our basement, which Jessica and I crawled through after getting back (I screamed more).
More class, and a dinner with a local student, Jin Wong, on Wednesday. In the evening, The Stanford kids and I went to K11 Musea to watch the Eternals. We followed it up with McDonaldâs in TST and because the MTR had already shut down on the East Rail line, we took the Tuen Ma line to a stop across the canal and Uberâd the rest of the way back.
With no class on this Thursday, another day of exploration awaited me. First, the Stanford group of Tyler, Jessica, Caroline and I took to the streets of Sham Shui Po in search of the esteemed Michelin star restaurant Tim Ho Wan. They had to have put crack in their pork buns or something, it was that good. With the famous Toy street market right beside us, we headed there to grab some souvenirs for friends back home. Tyler and Caroline dipped after this to return to their afternoon classes, while Jessica and I continued the day by picking up some ShareTea bubble tea, stopping by a local bakery, visiting the Golden Computer Arcade in Sham Shui Po, visiting a cat cafĂŠ in Tsim Sha Tsui, going to see the symphony of lights in Victoria Harbour (kind of underwhelming but still cool!), and finally stopping by a open air seafood restaurant on Temple Street, a notorious Street food location. We finally returned to campus afterwards, where I had my weekly call with my grandparents. Have I mentioned how weird it is to be on the same side of the world as them again after 4 years but being unable to visit them?
Even without class on Friday, I had some catching up on work to do from the fun this week. However, the evening was still amazing as I went to Caliente, a Mexican restaurant in Tsim Sha Tsui, before heading to another Hong Kong Philharmonic concert featuring Beethovenâs Eroica and the Bruch violin concerto, which was, funnily enough, almost the exact same program that the Dartmouth Symphony Orchestra would be playing a week later on the other side of the world (miss yaâll đ). I got yelled at for trying to switch to a better seat after intermission. After a post concert snack at the Nun Dessert CafĂŠ in Mong Kok for Bingsu (Korean shaved ice), I met Devora, the last Stanford student of note on the bus ride back up to Lee Woo Sing, only finding her by hearing her speak fluent English with an American accent to her friend (that happens QUITE often here).
Saturday, Sunday Nov. 6th – 7th: Ham Tin Beach
Once again, we have another trip planned one day in advance (at least, I was only invited yesterday, while the rest of the 50+ CUHK students who would be going had already formed groups well before this day). Today, the group of Sam, Corliss, Kelly, Matt, Tyler, and I ventured out to Ham Tin Beach out in Sai Kung, the wilderness of Hong Kong. The only way there is via a 3 km hike through the mountains and woods or by a 50 minute speed boat across literal ocean. Of course, being the less daring group, we chose to boat over in the evening, but before that, we spend our time exploring Sai Kung city at the outskirts of civilization before we enter the wilderness. We have some fun kayaking between the mini islands along the coast, stopping along some of the beaches. Both Matt and Sam, while romping in the water along the beach of the mini-island we stopped at having a chicken fight, managed to get stung on the foot by something in almost the exact same spot in the water on the beach. We returned to the city to grab both bĂĄnh mĂŹ and some falafels before hopping on a speedboat to the beach cove. And by speedboat, I mean speed boat. This thing mustâve been zooming across the water at 35 to 40 mph, and we felt every little wave under us. By the time we got to the beach, it was already dark, and since there was no port to dock in, we had to park maybe 30 m away from the beach in the surf and walk the rest of the way up onto the sand with our backpacks like we were storming the beaches of Normandy. We made it there alive and got started setting up our tent that we rented with our collective pool of money from the singular equipment store there, and grabbed food from the one restaurant next to the beach. Letâs just say the rest of the night was a blur of fun and excitement, where things that happened on the beach stay on the beach. Some events of note include finding a crab, finding Ivan passed out outside of our tent holding a bottle of liquor in hand, worrying that Matt had gotten lost on his way to the bathroom, only to find him stargazing in the bushes somewhere, and having some shipsâ fog light being shown on us from the sea, kilometers away, looking like some alien craft about to descend on the beach. Meanwhile, the Europeans were having a nonstop music festival around their bonfire, meaning that even if we wanted to sleep, we couldnât.
As the sun rose on my measly four hours of terrible sleep in CĂŠdricâs tent, we were hit with the boiler oven temperatures and beating tropical sun of daylight (we were wearing shorts even at night time). Operating only semi consciously, we packed up our tenting equipment and returned it, while the rest of the group frolicked in the morning waters off the beach. Following a light brunch using the remainder of the money that we had brought for the trip, we began the arduous journey back to the taxi stop that we needed to get to in order to return to campus. Halfway through, we all collectively agreed to give up and speed boat the rest of the way back once we got to the intermediate beach along the trail, where I got into a lively discussion with Tyler about his involvement in working on the marriage pact team at Stanford. The speedboat ride back to Sai Kung city was nowhere near as smooth as the ride up â with waves nearly 2 m high, we were attempting to go back at the same speed we had arrived at, which was a death defying experience. We would literally be jumping off the waves like they were ramps, and landing on the water again maybe two seconds later (lots of airtime). I honestly thought we would capsize at some point, and some of the other tourists on the boat also thought that as well, with one woman from Morocco screaming to be let off the boat at some point due to her terror. Those other tourists (obviously European) would not stop singing goddamn football match songs and chants, at one point screaming the French national anthem in an attempt to ward off their fright. We finally pulled into port in Sai Kung, and following a Uber ride back to campus, I was finally allowed my well-deserved rest by sleeping the rest of the day.
Monday Nov. 8th – Saturday Nov. 13th
On Monday, I finally got my personalized Octopus card after waiting for six weeks. How cool of me to have my face on my Octopus card now, unlike the other losers still stuck with temporary student cards! đđđ I believe this evening, there was also the Chung Chi College Orchestra (the CUHK Orchestra) fall concert, though with very limited seating only in the balcony (since the wind players were separated out on the ground floor playing from the audience), I had to sneak my way in and watch their performance of Tchaikovsky Symphony No. 6 (also being played by DSO in the spring).
More classes and more work on Tuesday. I got dinner at Lee Woo Sing with some international acquaintances as a way to distract myself from work for a while (I had an essay due that night).
On Wednesday, I went on a OAL sponsored walking tour of Yau Ma Tei, A historic district near Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon side. We hit the Liu Ma Kee bean curd shop, Tin Hau temple, walked Shanghai street, Tung Nam Lou Art Hotel, and I finally got dinner with two international students I met along the way, Miho and Khaleeqah, at some gentrified hipster restaurant called âThe Jungleâ. I was feeling a little sick by the evening, and I did end up with something, so I continued to rest for the two days after, only going out to get food every once in a while.
Saturday night was chill, and instead of the usual European tradition to go to LKF every weekend, I spent the night learning unstable unicorns (a card game like exploding kittens) with Stefan, Jaymi, and Caroline.
Sunday Nov. 14th: Alumni Hike and City Skylines
After a measly 4 hours of sleep but determined not to miss this upcoming Dartmouth alumni event since I had missed the previous two, I grabbed some steamed buns from Tong Kee Bao (honestly convenient breakfast at the MTR station is such a life saver), then hopped on the MTR and then the bus to take me to our planned trailhead on Hong Kong island. Along the trail, I got to meet some very cool alumni, including Frances, a former Tuck student at Goldman, Annora, a gov major â10, Aaditya, a CS major â14, Eva, a Wall Street Journal writer â13, James, a â15 ENGS major, and Tanya, a â02. Not having done any of the city view hikes before, I got my first ever taste of seeing the skyscrapers up close and personal today after reaching the top of Jardineâs lookout and then Braemar Hill. Iâll let the photos speak for themselves.
Following the moderately difficult hike, the group taxied to Ask for Alonzo, an Italian restaurant in Happy Valley. (Unknown to me at the time, I would eventually go to its sister location in Central when meeting one of my friendâs cousins who lived in Hong Kong.) after a wonderful Italian meal, James took me to ride the âding ding!â for the first time, or the affectionately named streetcars that run along the length of Hong Kong Island. I took some time to explore the city more on my own after this, stopping by the ladiesâ market in Mong Kok to pick up souvenirs, and visiting K11 Steinway again. For dinner, I finally met up with Matt, Devora, Jessica, and Kelly after they finished touring the Hong Kong Art Museum to get some of the best ever Shanghai pan fried dumplings (â缼čč¨â in Tsim Sha Tsui) and some upscale Michelin guide restaurant called ĺ澡 (South Sea) on the 33rd floor of the I-Square building/plaza.
Monday Nov 15th – Friday Nov 19th
More class and a whole lot of nothing on Monday and Tuesday. Grabbed dinner with Bene from my Control Theory class Monday evening and stopped by the supermarket on Tuesday to grab more fruits for my dorm.
Wednesday morning had me on 5 hours of sleep stumbling to my algorithms class. Afterwards, I grabbed lunch with Wei Xuan Phor, a classmate from the class and Malaysian full time international student in his senior year. I rushed back to my dorm after to speedrun the problem set for that week before I ran to dinner in Sha Tin with Jeongyoon Han. Just by pure coincidence, I had bumped into her on the street a few weeks prior after noticing her American English accent, and now we were finally getting our planned meal together. Even though she was a graduate of Williams College, her sister is a Dartmouth alum, and has visited before. I brought her to the Sweetish by Honeymoon Dessert cafe after dinner to indulge in more çłć°´ (tangshui), after which we departed and I occupied the practice room for a while.
Thursday had me back in class, but could not prevent me from seeing Alexander Ullman perform a variety of piano sonatas, including Waldstein and the Liszt Sonata, at Hong Kong City Hall in Central. Of course, Hong Kong being the Expat city it is, I sat next to an American software engineer working here in Hong Kong (and she tried to convince me to come here after graduation tooâI just might indulge her in that choice). In the spirit of attending more concerts while Iâm here, I arranged an outing group to see the Hong Kong Philharmonic perform Rachmaninoffâs Piano Concerto No. 2 in December this evening, purchasing six of the best tickets until my card was declined. Iâll have to go to the box office after to purchase the rest (donât worry, they paid me back).
On this chill Friday afternoon, I went down to YIA to talk with the outgoing exchange students, i.e. students from CUHK going to the US to study abroad for the next semester. Being only one of two student representatives there in a room of over 100 students, I went around to each destination schoolsâ students to talk about life in the US and how different it was from Hong Kong, primarily warning them about city life, safety, and cultural differences, as well as the lack of transportation options outside of owning a car. I saw some familiar faces in the room and from various places across campus, including the human library, and also got to know some cool people who I plan to meet later over meals, including someone who knew another Dartmouth student. Following the talk, I MTR over to Sha Tin to grab a quick bite at Genki sushi before heading to the Joint University Chinese Orchestra concert. I was invited by a musician friend I got to know at CUHK, Motoyo, who plays the çŹĺ (dĂzi, or Chinese flute) in the orchestra, even though she normally plays piano for her music major. The concert was unlike anything Iâve heard before, featuring lots of modern composers, since the orchestral arrangement of such Chinese instruments was quite uncommon back in the day, only developing around the 1920s, and consisting of the European traditions of a full symphonic orchestra replaced with traditional Chinese instruments. I only realized after the concert that she had paid for the tickets when inviting her friends, and would not allow me to pay her back.
Saturday, Nov. 20th: Lantau
Finally, our time has come. The return to the great quarantine motherland (except not really), 2.5 months after I left it. The group of Fendi, Jessica, Caroline, Jaymi, Tyler, and Stefan met at the MTR station to grab our beloved Tong Kee Bao for breakfast at 8:30 AM to begin our hour long MTR ride to Hong Kongâs largest island. we arrived at Tung Chung station at 10 oâclock following one of the prettiest MTR rides Iâve ever taken up to that point. God bless the orange line for having open air rail routes allowing us to view the sea and skyline as we left Kowloon. Those views were one upped, however, as we got on the glass bottom cable car ride that would take us from Tung Chung city up to Ngong Ping village, home of the iconic 30 m Buddha statue that I had gazed upon from my quarantine cell at the airport. After being scarily close to a real cow, smelling the largest incense sticks ever seen in my life, and eating some sugary tofu, we took the bus down to Tai O fishing village on the west side of Lantau Island. We grabbed lunch and got on a dolphin sightseeing boat (unfortunately there were no dolphins) that took us through the village built on stilts, all the while being amazed that real people lived here. Out in the ocean, we could also see the Hong Kong Zhuhai Macau bridge spanning the entire horizon. Another group of CUHK students was also here, including Ivan and some Europeans, and they had planned a hike to Sunset Peak on Lantau, but while waiting for the bus, which was incredibly crowded, I got lost and did not end up getting on with them. (They ended up being the only group to successfully hike up in time to see it out of maybe three or four that attempted).
Super bummed, I walked back to the original group but my spirits were lifted after we got the classic island snacks of fish balls, mango ice cream, and ç 鼟 (jiÄnbing, Chinese crĂŞpe), while Tyler and Matt shot artsy photos of the village for their class. Before we departed, we picked up some souvenirs and took some artsy photos ourselves before hopping on the bus back to Ngong Ping and catching the last of the cable cars heading back to Tung Chung. Let me just preface that there are not many places in Hong Kong where you can find complete silence. Being up on that cable car hundreds of feet in the air with no sound but that of the wind and the voices of my friends, staring out over the mountains and the skyscrapers at the setting sun was one of my three favorite moments during the entire exchange, possibly ever (the other being in a similar moment in December on top of Suicide Cliff and our American Thanksgiving later that week). Tyler said what we were all thinking at the time, âGuys, this is gonna sound so stupid right now, but weâre in Hong Kong. Weâre really in Hong Kong, guys. Weâre literally on the other side of the world, and weâre just living⌠as I was telling someone, like weâll still be friends after this but nothing will still be the same, weâll never be like this, you know, like right now,â as we were passing over the last mountaintop with a view of the airport. Stefan continues: âYou know, 25 years from now, Wendell will be organizing some Hong Kong reunion get together and weâll all be saying âyou guys remember that one time we were all up in that gondola in November?ââ God, that one really hit in the feels đĽşđđ. We all talked about our upcoming departure dates in December, really driving home the fact that for a lot of us (not including me), this was the beginning of their last month here, both a terrifying and exciting prospect for all of us as we looked forward to what was to come in the next few weeks. You can find snippets of our conversation down at the bottom in my November recap video. We finished up the day by getting back to campus and eating dinner at LWS canteen, introducing Ega, an Indonesian international student in my algorithms class to some of my American friends, and playing some unstable unicorns.
Sunday Nov. 21st – Friday Nov. 26th: Thanksgiving Week
With another late wake up Sunday, I do some laundry before heading to dinner with my uncle and cousins at Four Point Golden Restaurant, eating some unique Chinese dishes of goose liver, pig lung soup, bitter melon, and seafood pancake. I grab some more çłć°´ (tĂĄngshuÇ) with my cousin before going to sleep. My grandma on my motherâs side, ĺ¤ĺŠ, is currently with my aunt in Shanghai right now, and will soon be returning with her to Hong Kong, meaning Iâll be able to see her for the first time in four years soon.
I buy some egg tarts at the local bakery along the way to the MTR station as I head back to campus for class this Monday morning. In the evening, I joined Sam âif theyâre not speaking canto to me when I walk in itâs not local enoughâ Bell and some Europeans on a journey to the Tai Po cooked food market, which was right above the Tai Po wet market. Of course, being pretty much the only mandarin speaker in the group, I attempted to help order for most of us, which proved to be a difficult task as many of them were vegetarian. Overall, a unique experience, but definitely more so for the Europeans who were nowhere near as adventurous as my friend group. Some complaints I did have about CUHK students surfaced today as I noticed many in the lecture hall being on their phone the entire time, some even hardcore gaming while the professor was speaking. Why would you even show up to lecture in the first place if you were just going to do that the whole time?
Tuesday started with a brunch with Willie at the Ben Franklin coffee corner, something quite unusual given my sleep schedule. She is now officially the first person Iâve met outside of Dartmouth, and certainly in Hong Kong to know about Joelle Park, a Dartmouth YouTuber. Since I was one of the few who didnât have an international charge when withdrawing from the ATM, many of my American friends would use me to withdraw for them and Venmo me back for it, and today was one of those withdrawal days where I got to be a sugar daddy. Today was also one of the first real cold days we had, where the high was 15°C (59°F). In the afternoon, I met with Motoyo and two of her friends, Angela and Jessie, for lunch at the Orchid Lounge, another restaurant on campus that I hadnât been to. She gave me a tour of the music building after that, where I was treated to the site of Yamaha and BĂśsendorfer grand pianos to play on as well as the chance to meet some of the CUHK orchestra members along the way as well. Itâs funny to note how similar most music departments are, trapped in some of the darkest and most cramped practice spaces on campus, paired with some of the most amazing performance venues there are on campus. Finally, continuing my day of meeting people, I zoomed off to Sha Tin for dinner at a rice noodle restaurant with Elizabeth Chan, one of the outgoing exchange students that I met the previous week. She would be graduating in 2022, meaning that her last semester of college would be on exchange at UCLA, a return to her high school years where she studied internationally in California, even getting to know the very same Dartmouth YouTuber, Joelle Park, during this time.
Wednesday morning, I decided to take my time and go down the scenic steps of United College instead of taking the bus as usual. After classes and psets, I met with Jessica and Caroline to get Budae Jjigae, otherwise known as Korean army stew, for the first time at the UC canteen. After telling Stephen, my roommate, about meeting Revant Ranjan, the UBS trader and only other Dartmouth alum close to my age here currently, he expressed interest in meeting with him too due to a shared interest in the financial industry following graduation, so I spent the evening arranging the details of that dinner for Friday.
Sad to still have class on Thanksgiving day, but alas, we will get a chance to celebrate this evening nonetheless. Following class, I went on a grand journey to Tai Po to pick up my contribution to this eveningâs potluck: roasted goose from the âFour Seasonsâ restaurant I had visited with Ivan in early October after our biking trip. Following my return, I rushed to the 11th floor of S.H.Ho to meet the 15 other American exchange students coming to begin prepping our great Thanksgiving feast consisting of mac & cheese, mashed potatoes, McDonaldâs, and my goose and some KFC wings substituting as our turkey for the evening. As a testament to my interconnectedness on campus, at least among the exchange students, the only person I didnât know when the room was Sarah from the University of Michigan, the third and final student from there. Our handcrafted Soju-Yakult-Sprite cocktail courtesy of Kelly, Jessica, and Matt was well received by all, Ivanâs four pots of mac & cheese withstood our appetites (even though the boys attempted to finish it), and Stefanâs cake was the cherry (mango) on top of our enormous dinner. Us being the classic cheesy Americans we were, we went around the room saying our gratitudes for all being together this evening, where I of course had to rub it in that I was taking pass fail courses. To top off an already amazing evening, we hit up the abandoned UC Ampitheatre to chill out after dinner. Some unforgettable quotes: âmemory loss Mattâ, âtell me Iâm wrongâ, âyouâre not afraid of the dark, youâre afraid of whatâs in itâ.
Can you believe we still had to wake up after a night like that? in the afternoon, the OAL arranged a final farewell get-together of all the exchange students on campus, allowing us to meet Rocky Tuan, the CUHK president. I even got a free mug out of it! Afterwards, I made my way to TST In search of food, returning to the Shanghai pan fried dumpling place and getting some Boba too. I meandered around for a while until it came time to meet Revant, Stephen, and an extra friend that Stephen brought, Marco, for dinner at Kikusan, a high-end Japanese restaurant in Central. Rev talked about his plans for the near future (he was originally assigned to Tokyo and finally got permission to go there sometime in January) and it was a interesting opportunity for Stephen to hear about the life of a trader. Afterwards, I met up with Willie, Jessica, Kelly, Matt, and Tyler at another arcade in Mong Kok, following them to the various stations. We all got the itch to visit McDonaldâs after, only to find out that the Sha Tin location was closed upon arrival, so we split up into taxis to get to the Tai Wai 24hr location instead, finally getting back to campus well into the morning.
Saturday Nov. 27th: Cheung Chau Island
The long awaited guided tour from Jims, one of the students we met at the human library, began this morning as Wei Xuan, Matt, Jims, and I met to get on the ferry departing from central to the island we would be spending our day at. We managed to get on the fast ferry (30 minute ride instead of an hour long), finally arriving on the island around 11 or so. Cheung Chau is one of the smaller islands comprising Hong Kongâs island districts, where it once was a fishing village, but has now turned into a major tourist destination (including for us) with tons of seemingly authentic things to explore. We walked along the street next to the harbor until we got to our destination restaurant, where I shared an eel Bento box with Jims, and we passed a small mochi stand where we got real mango mochi for dessert (made on the spot). We trekked to the southern portion of the island along the afternoon to visit piratesâ cove, taking multitudes of pictures along the way and admiring the island scenery. Wei Xuan had to leave early, so he and I rushed ahead to the Cove which, as the legend goes, was a safe haven for pirate booty for a long time. After crawling in the most claustrophobic space Iâd been in for a long time, I can see why that was the case, and we emerged from the other end of the small tunnel, where I said goodbye to Wei Xuan. Matt, Jims, and I met up again to walk to our sunset viewing spot on the reclining rock on the southern side. Due to the rising tide, we had to crawl along a very sketchy raised fence in order to get to the other side of the beach, and I accidentally scratched my leg here a little bit. Iâll let the photos speak for themselves, but sunset was another one of those serene quiet moments you rarely find in Hong Kong, where Jims, Matt, and I enjoyed every second of it. As we were walking back, we passed by an old lady who was selling authentic herbal teas, so Jims bought us some to have us try themâfive flower tea and monk fruit tea, both with a very strong and strange taste but very authentic nonetheless. We made our way back to the town and the ferry, stopping along the way to get fried ice cream, some âlucky bunsâ for Matt, and some assorted fruit mochi to take home (that would eventually give me food poisoningâyou should definitely eat these the day of and not keep them in a fridge like me). As we got back to Central, we all went our separate ways, allowing me to return to Temple Street to find a Nepalese Indian restaurant for dinner before returning to CUHK.
Sunday Nov. 28th – Tuesday Nov. 30th: The Mochi Strikes Back
Taking a chill Sunday, I just got some dinner with Jessica at New Asia canteen, one of her frequent Sunday favorites, and ate some mochi for dessert.
Monday morning started with a farewell get together for the human library class that Matt and I had frequented as guests, getting to have some of the delicious sweet sago that Jims made for us. We find out that many of the students here would not just be going to the US for exchange next term, but countries throughout the world. After bombing a quiz in my geography class, I went back to my dorm but I accidentally walked in on my roommate doing an interview with HSBC. Whoops! Instead, I went down to get afternoon tea with Fendi, where she told me about some of her crazy Tinder stories in Hong Kong, with my roommate joining us a little later. Following my environmental sciences class, I took the MTR to Paradise Dynasty in Mong Kok to meet with Annie Au, one of the other outgoing exchange students that I met last week who wanted to know more about life in the US before she got there. Paradise Dynastyâs signature dish is their multicolored soup dumpling platter, where each one is of a different flavor. We ate to our heartâs content, getting other dishes like Shanghainese spicy glass noodles and ćľć˛ĺ (lava/molten egg custard buns) with bubble tea after, while I simultaneously talked about what she could expect on exchange at UCSD. Hearing that she initially wanted to attend UPenn instead but with a lackluster English exam score preventing her from doing so, I was reminded of the privilege of being able to speak a native language anywhere I go with English as the largest worldwide lingua franca.
To top off my November in Hong Kong, I woke up on Tuesday feeling absolutely terrible, not realizing that the mochi I brought back from the island had most likely caused it. I simply rested and worked on homework when I could.
Throughout the month, I recorded quite a lot of videos, and I put that together in an actually edited compilation here for you to enjoy! Skip through the chapters as you wish
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