Reflections on Antarctica

As a follow-up to my last blog-post, I wanted to expand on my takeaways from my ten-day excursion to Antarctica. One of my best learning opportunities was simply observing how others passengers interacted with the land, and consequently, how effective the International Association of Antarctica Tour of Operators (IATTO) was in practice. IAATO is a self-governing mechanism that promotes environmentally responsible travel to Antarctica for private operators, such as OneOcean expeditions.

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While crossing the Drake Passage, the “roughest stretch of sea in the world,” on our way to Antarctica, we attended two mandatory lectures under IAATO, which outlined Guidance for Visitors to the Antarctic. These sessions informed us about the importance of leaving no trace, respecting protected areas, and distancing ourselves from wildlife (Reflections, 2007). With the latter example, failure to do so could have disastrous consequences, such as scaring the penguins, causing them to run away and potentially break a foot or change path, forcing them to exert extra energy when going down to the ocean to feed.

Our first stop was in the South Sheltand Islands at Yankee Harbour. The other passengers and I were lucky enough to witness elephant seals and chinstrap penguins interspersed infrequently throughout the gentoo penguin dominant colonies. Despite this being the first excursion however, I noticed that some passengers willfully ignored some of the guidelines discussed during the IAATO briefing; as I vividly recall one passenger got within three meters of an elephant seal. It was interesting to see how some animals adapted to a humans’ presence better than others; for example, the penguins at Port Lackroy were quite comfortable around humans, in contrast to the scua I saw on Yankee Harbour, which howled at me as I inadvertently got close to its eggs. This phenomenon demonstrates how vital IAATO is in preventing alterations of animal behavior.

The main problem with IAATO, is that monitoring is sparse, therefore, the voluntary provision is very hard to enforce. From my observations, the honor system wasn’t always enough to avoid such violations, and it would be unrealistic for the OneOcean staff to micromanage every passenger while on land. Subpar boot washing also occurred as the quality of the scrubbing severely diminished over time. This ties directly into The Agreed Measures for the Conservation of Antarctic Flora and Fauna of 1964, which deals with the restriction on interference of wildlife, the establishment of protected areas, restrictions on introduction of non-indigenous species, and a category of specifically protected species introduced (Liggett, 2015).

Moreover, I was shocked by the lack of effort taken to cover up large indents in the snow as a result of a human step, or our sleeping holes when camping out on Leith Cove. On our daily hikes, people would often stray from the designated path or walk over penguin highways without much awareness of the ecosystem impacts. A few of my classmates set out to help cover up these holes, however I feel that a simple check by the crew could help avoid some of this negligence displayed by fellow passengers, in preserving the terrain. Although failure to cover up these holes has less to do with the possibility of penguins getting trapped in the snow, the concept of leaving no trace was not executed in every interaction with the land.

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Although the aforementioned experiences are very targeted learning experiences, I never would have known that IAATO is breached consistently. I think it is admirable that many tour companies voluntarily abide by IAATO and do their best to avoid altering animal’s habitats. However, I think monitoring and enforcement mechanisms could be better, such as stationing one staff member at the boot washing station following excursions. It is entirely possible for a company to be a part of IAATO and not abide by its guidelines, but I commend the OneOcean staff for attempting to adhere to the provisions. Overall, I believe that we did a good job of minimizing impact, but need to compensate for others in the group who often forget about the harmful effects a footprint can have.

This experience complements my Dartmouth education as it reinforces fundamental concepts from my environmental justice, environmental law, and issue’s of the Earth’s cold regions. I hope to learn more about Antarctica’s unique environmental policy in the context of global relations and excited at the prospect of implementing feasible solutions to become an effective Antarctic ambassador and policy leader in the years to come.

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References:

Guidance for Visitors to the Antarctic. (2016). Retrieved December 9, 2016, from http://iaato.org/c/document_library/get_file?uuid=022e237f-740e-4e7a-b952-a8acfe5d45c8&groupId=10157

Liggett, D. (2015). Tourism in Antarctica. Exploring the Last Continent, 379-398. doi:10.1007/978-3-319-18947-5_18

 Reflections: At the end of the Earth. 2007. (pp. 1-51, Rep.). (n.d.).

Greetings from Antarctica

Dear members of the Class of 1957,

My name is Joanne Nazareth and I am currently a senior at Dartmouth College, pursuing a double major in economics and environmental studies. I spent December 18-28, 2016 aboard the Akademik Ioffe, studying abroad with the College at Brockport SUNY in Antarctica. My interest in the Antarctic began in the Spring of 2016, when I enrolled in Environmental Issues of the Earth’s Cold Regions with Professor Ross Virginia, where I learned about the historical context of Antarctic exploration, the environmental impacts global warming has on the region, and different ecosystems within the region. I decided to embark on this once in a lifetime adventure to deepen my understanding of polar issues. The vast, unique environment enticed me, as well as the ability to fulfill one of my major requirements while getting to hike, camp, and meet people from around the world. This opportunity reinforced content from the fall online lectures and I was able to diversify my experiences and takeaways, which greatly surpassed my expectations. Many of our excursions took place on The Antarctica Peninsula, which is one of three fastest warming parts of the planet, experiences a 10% decrease in sea ice per decade. In contrast, the interior of the continent is experiencing a cooling phenomenon (Bentley, 2015).

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Our twenty-person group was divided into two teams, seabirds and ecotourism respectively. I was a part of the ecotourism team, which topics ranging from the impacts of Antarctic tourism in the gateway city of Ushuaia, Argentina, the port we departed from; tourist disturbances and impacts on wildlife, invasive species, and the “Antarctic Ambassador” effect. My role on the carbon footprint and climate change module was to calculate the carbon footprint of the ship and analyze the exponential increase in Antarctic tourism within the context of climate change. In 2011-12 season, there were approximately 26,500 visitors to the Antarctic; in 2014-15 season, this number jumped to 36,702 visitors, and peaked during the 2007-8 season with 46,265 visitors (IAATO, 2016).

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Our ship, the Akademik Ioffe, ran on Marine Gas Oil (MGO), which is a sustainable alternative to Heavy Fuel Oil (HFO). My partner and I assumed that the ship spent approximately half of its time in ‘hotelling’ mode and the other half operating at full power. We then used two equations from our required readings where we multiplied fuel consumption by an emission factor and averaged them to get an estimate of 12.67 tons of fuel produced per day (Farreny, 2011). However, the numbers we derived did not take into account the flight emissions, which add a few more tons to total trip emissions.

Although I was part of the ecotourism group, it was important for me to seek out my own learning opportunities. I would go up to the bridge once a day and learn about navigation. I would also stand on the outskirts as the bird group completed its watch for the day and learn more about bird identification techniques. Essentially, I was an advocate for my own learning and made it a point to seek out new and diverse information. I learned about penguins, albatrosses, petrels, sheathbills, skuas, and cormorants and how to identify them accordingly, using the dichotomous key.

Working on this project, demonstrated the complexity and gravity of Antarctic tourism in accumulation, as the average tourist trip to Antarctica produces approximately 5.44 tons of carbon dioxide emissions per passenger and .49 per passenger per day (Eijgelaar, 2010). Surprisingly, passengers of Antarctica cruises can produce as many emissions on their trip as the average European in a year. While this may seem like a lot, measures have been taken to offset these emissions; for example, the Akaedmik Ioffe conducted a charity auction for wildlife conservation and donated the proceeds, in order to ensure future trips to the Antarctic.

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References:

Eijgelaar, E., Thaper, C., & Peeters, P. (2010). Antarctic Cruise Tourism: the Paradoxes of Ambassadorship, “Last Chance Tourism” and Greenhouse gas emission. Journal of Sustainable tourism .

Farreny, R., & Oliver-Sola, J. (2011, April 1). Carbon dioxide emissions of Antarctic tourism. Retrieved December 10, 2016, from https://brockport.open.suny.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-381415-dt-content-rid-2006838_1/courses/201609-OAP404-01-ASA/M1 – Farreny et al 2011 carbon footprint.pdf.

IAATO Tourism Statistics. (2016). Retrieved December 9, 2016, from https://iaato.org/tourism-statistics